NYFW: Rodarte Fall 2020 Dark Romance—Femininity Celebrates Feminism

If time travel is a real thing, you could find Bette Davis wearing Rodarte Fall 2020 collection in Jezebel(1938), multiple times.

As far as the gothic horror theme of Rodarte Fall 2020 show goes, the setting of the show does the trick. When models walked down the candlelit aisle from the nave of St. Bartholomew Church on Park Avenue, Designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy perfectly set the mood for fashion-goers to dive into Bram Stoker’s 1897 novel Dracula.

In encountering attires of Gothic Victorian and masculine-inspired 1940s ensemble, the overall collection is spectacular yet also acquainted with our up-to-date senses. It would feel rather avant-garde to Lucy Westenra and Mina Murray (the female characters in Dracula), however, and they would’ve loved it.

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(Left) Bella Hadid decked out in an early-40s silhouette, belted white shirt dress—-contrasted by prominent red lapels and cuffs and scarlet polka dot prints. The dress, paired with fishnet gloves and a pair of radiant bejeweled red and silver pumps, was also matched with a deep plum lip and a rose-topped white lace veil. The latter two accessories especially were carried along by the show for enhancing the dark romance feel. 

(Right) Paired with all the identical accessories, this silk dress came across as a delicate reminiscent combination of 30s hemline and 50s puritan collar. On top of the elegant feminine silhouette, there is a hint of a dark and chilling vibe about this dress, isn’t there? It might be given off by those scattered asymmetrical poker heart prints, as if blood spattered all over the dress. Oof, there it is! If you think deeper about this, it makes perfect sense that a modern female vampire would wear this dainty dress to spread innocence and sweetness, only to linger to drain your blood at sundown.

Some references from 30s, 40s, and 50s magazine illustrations👇

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It probably not a coincidence that the Rodarte sisters chose to blend part of 40s fashion elements to supplement this season’s gothic narrative. Both the gothic style and 40s fashion are associated with modern-day feminism. 

When World War II broke out in 1939, military-feel uniforms dominated women’s fashion, in echoing with supporting the war effort. The war had given women chances to take jobs that were previously only held by men.

Thus, the early 40s military-feel fashion marks strong, bold, and independent women spirit, which coincides with the gothic fiction genre that explores the tension of female strength at the time when the patriarchal system and oppressive gender roles were highly maintained.

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Apart from the Rodarte sisters evolved the brand’s signature feminine looks by adding a layer of gothic embellishment; more importantly, their ability of storytelling has evoked the viewers to think about female empowerment while keeping a complete feminine wardrobe.

What Rodarte’s collection speaks out is that femininity is every bit of equal of masculinity. Wearing soft, dainty, feminine clothes will not diminish one’s strength compared to wearing man-tailored power suits.

Embracing femininity to its extreme is a way of feminist expression. Based on the depth and power of femininity, the Rodarte sisters have conveyed this level of significance through these breath-taking frocks.

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